SE Asia vol.2: Thailand

Out of Cambodia, out of the heat… a man-made thing which is a line on the map changed so much in the climate. Either Thailand was much cooler or I have already got used to the heat.

Coastal ride

I started the first day very early, not knowing yet that it will be the longest cycling day in SE Asia. Cycling was really pleasant – very good pavement, not dense traffic, sometimes small hills and a lot of shade. After few hours I saw the ocean for the first time.

Side road and the first meeting with Thai dogs
Ocean for the first time

And from this moment I stayed on the coast. The area between Chanthaburi and Bangkok is occupied by tourists. There are big resorts every few kilometers. Chilling out all the time, having the ocean 50 meters from the hotel and a massage on the beach – I am jealous!

I did not have time to enjoy massge 😦
The first drink on my trip
Indian Ocean

I stopped few times for a refreshing bath. There were also many locals enjoying their life on the beach πŸ˜‰

Coastal roads like this one are great for cycling
Enjoying my time πŸ˜‰ Still not knowing that it would be the longest cycling day in SE Asia
Another coastal road

It was really a great day. Somewhere close to Rayong I had to leave the coast and have ridden across the chemical factory and next to the military base.

Flying machine

Night ride

Finally, I got to the train station. According to a webite, the train to Bangkok left at 6pm every day. Unfortunately, it turned out that it left at 1pm every day. I could pitch a tent on the station, it was a really clean and nice place and a local head of the station was very friendly, but, instead, I decided to…cycle 120km more to Chahoengsao where the train to Bangkok left at 5am and arrived 2 hours later. I was in a rush because I wanted to apply for my Chinese visa before weekend. This was an absolutely crazy ride.

At the train station before the night ride. It was so pleasant – if only I camped there instead of this silly ride!
Somewhere at the petrol station…
In the middle of the night ride. Trying to cool myself down πŸ˜€

I was following the side road to the highway. Due to the navigation mistake, I added another 15km. Some dogs chased me all the time. I had to speed up to 50kmh to get rid of them. At once, I had to stop at the petrol station for one hour to reduce my heart rate as I was afraid I will have a heart attack πŸ˜€ Finally, after in total 294km this day, I arrived at the train station and went to sleep for 3 hours. After 1 hour I was waken up but the piece of a lamp which broke away and landed 1 meter from my head…that could me a pretty bad end to this crazy night!

3 people helped me getting to the train with a bicycle. In the middle I met a typical β€žbaba z targu’ as we say in Poland πŸ˜‰

Taking a train with a bicycle in Thailand – not easy but not so bad.
This thing in the bowl is moving. No idea what it is…
Baba z targu πŸ˜‰

Chinese visa

After almost 300km, the first thing I had to do was…to apply for my Chinese visa. Come’on, sleeping is for weak people πŸ˜€ The guy in the embassy told me that if I want to have an urgent application, I have to apply the next day in the morning. I could not believe it – all my effort for nothing. The next day, Friday, in the evening I received an e-mail that I will not receive my Chinese visa in Bangkok and I can pick up my documents – but on Monday. Perfect! I am wasting now another 3 days in Bangkok because of China. I do not like this country even before going there.

Bangkok, like Phnom Penh, is definitely to hot to enjoy at least for me. Do not go there in February. It also missed my expectations. I remembered Bangkok from β€žHangover 2: Bangkok” as the crowded city with narrow streets and a lot of hanging cables and A/Cs. It was relatively clean and tidy. You cannot be in Bangkok and not visit Red Light District at least as famous as an Amsterdam one πŸ˜‰ However, there was so many elderly, 60-70years old white guys with young, naked Thai girls there that it was rather a disgusting experience.

Finally, on Monday I picked my passport and took a bus to Vientiane in Laos, where I got my Chinese visa within 5 hours for $62 – I recommend the Chinese embassy there for everyone. I have also heard that it is quite simple in Phnom Penh (and you also do not have to prepare a pile of fake documents like travel itinerary, flight and hotel bookings).

Vientiane is probably the most laid-back capital I have seen. Everyone is so chilled-out and no-one is in a rush.

Vientiane from one side…
…and from the other.

After another night in the bus to Bangkok, I was happy to be back on bike. This time also by train to Ayuthaya, From there, 150km of cycling on the well paved and a very bussy highway.


I decided to try my luck and ask for a sleeping place at the Buddist monastery few kilometers from the road. It was absolutely the best night in SE Asia.

The night in a temple

No one spoke English except the PE teacher (the first to the right on the group photo) but it did not prevent the monks to come to me every 15-20 minutes and bring something. I received a full bag of medicines (I took only one painkiller which I have never used, I should pick the one for diarrhea!), frozen drinks, food, cold napkins and a nice bedroom πŸ˜‰

The PE* teacher – the first on the right – was the only English-speaking person (*PE refers to Psychical Education, not to Private Equity)
My bedroom. So awesome!
The gifts – medicines, water, snacks, cold napkins
My host πŸ˜€
My bedroom from outside

Getting out of Thailand

The next day was very similar – a boring but quick ride on a highway. I slept at Warmshowers host, a nice Korean buddy who teaches Korean at the local university in Kamphaeng Phet. In the morning I left early with the plan to reach the Burmese-Thai border crossing in Mae Sot / Myawaddy.

Fast and boring….
…mountains ahead.

I knew about a big climb ahead and assumed that 2 additional hours are completely enough for climbing it. I even took a small detour before to see a waterfall…

Small waterfall. I have spend 30minutes climbing to see it
A little bit dissapointed with the waterfall 😦

..and started climbing. That was the most tiring day in SE Asia (yes, more tthan the night ride to Bangkok). Some Chinese tourists stopped to make a photo with me πŸ˜€ That time, I was happy to get the attention – my attitude would change a lot in India! Cycling was not possible and pushing the 45kg bicycle up was a very daunting task. At the top I stopped at the local market to resupply and started descent. Yeah finally going down. Why climbing takes 3h and descending 15min? I have no idea, but it makes me mad.

Hard work
I want to die…but my bike seems to not care at all
Tea plantation – there are many of them on the hills in both Thailand and Burma
The top. Hurrraaaa!
I love going down

After the descent I started climbing another, smaller hill but quickly realised that it is impossible to finish before sunset and the threat of Thai dogs in the night made me turning back by 2kms to the police check post and pitching my tent there. The first camping in SE Asia. And so much pain in my back. I pushed my bike too long on one side.

MSR Hubba Hubba NX

I pitched only the bedroom as it was very hot and humid. I was very surprised to wake up freezing in the night. In Thailand, in the beginning of March (sic!).

The next day I even did not try cycling – ok, for the moment to show policemen that I am a serious cyclist πŸ˜‰ It was a much easier climb that yesterday, and at the top I met two local cyclists, one with panniers. I was already so tired that forgot to ask about their route. The descent was really fast – ca. 65km/h almost all the time.

The reminder of my summer holidays before high school πŸ˜€ Surveyor engineering in Thailand

I was finally at the border – a really funny one – cars had to change the side (from the left-side traffic in Thailand to the ride-side one in Birma) on the bridge between two countries and no-one helped them with that. One big mess!

The crazy bridge between Thailand and Burma

On the other side, I managed to pay-put cash in the ATM and headed to the closest restaurant. For local people, what means a cheap one.

A local restaurant in Myawaddy
In Birma it does not matter which route you choose – you end up at the destination anyway πŸ˜‰

I had another small hill to climb when I decided that my ambitious plan to cover 150km this day is well…too ambitious.

The last hill in SE Asia to climb and another plantation
And going down again…

So after I cycled down, I re-supplied at the shop next to the road and decided to stop at Kawkareik.

I have already got used to these small shops aong the roads in SE Asia

It is a small city with one foreigners-allowed hotel. I had a lot of time to see the town, what I described in the next episode πŸ˜‰